I turn on the television in our hotel room and land on ESPN. This
is my nightly routine: winding down to Sportscenter
en Español. I watch the baseball highlights of the day and see
players like Alexi Ramirez, Yeonis Cespedes, and Lyonis Martin, all of which
are Cuban defectors. I can’t even imagine what a transition it must be to go
from Cuban baseball to American baseball, to go from making virtually nothing
to making millions. Then again, I’m American: I’ve been programmed to assign the
idea of value to that of monetary
worth. It’s hard to break bad habits. Or is it?
Friday, June 29, 2012
Curveball
Monday, June 18, 2012
Havana Realism
Perro Means Dog
There is
a distinct sound made when the rusted fender of a ’55 Pontiac Star Chief meets
the skull of a medium-sized dog. This happened five minutes ago on one of our
daily trips to Case de la Alba, and
the sound still reverberates in our minds, our souls.
We’ve
walked the same way every day so far to our lecture meeting place, and during
these morning journeys we always see a smattering of feral animals. Well,
today, about five minutes from our destination, we walked past a kitten and a
young dog; they looked like friends, half grooming and half playing. As we
walked by, I attempted to communicate with the kitten via that Universal Kissing
Language that humans seem to assume all animals understand—though I must note
here that I have to be careful because that kissing sound is a Cuban form of
greeting, and one that on many occasions seems to have subtextual sexuality
imbedded within it. The last thing I want is to make that kissing sound and
piss off a Cuban; I don’t want them to think that I’m mocking them. Moreover, I also don’t want anyone who reads this to
think that I’m comparing Cubans to animals because I certainly am not. I’m the animal here; I’m the foreigner,
and just as I finished making that kissing sound I noticed an elderly man
glaring at me. So, I had to tell him in English “No. I was talking to the cat.”
As cats
are wont to do, the baby blue eyes of this three-or-so month old tabby barely
moved, looked at me with an oblivious innocence, sized me up, and decided that
the absolute best course of action for this particular situation was to lick
its genitals with a specific kind of feline ferocity. The dog, a young,
light-brown Labrador mix, though with a noticeably more compact frame, turned
with its tail wagging and its tongue flapping and walked. I’m not sure, but I
don’t think the dog was following us, just like I’m not sure that it was
inspired to walk because of my use of the Universal Kissing Language.
It was a
hauntingly hollow sound, like slamming the door of an empty washing machine,
and it cut straight through the cacophonous sounds of a bustling Havana. When I
first turned to locate where the sound came from, it didn’t register, nothing
did. I saw the ass end of a red ’55 Pontiac Star Chief, its brake lights
blaring as it hovered over what appeared to be a dog, one horrifyingly similar
to the dog we just past. The dog looked as if it were trying to wake up from a
nap in the middle of the street: it lay on its side with its tail still
wagging, though with a new, pathetic energy. Its left leg was kicking, trying
without success to run away from the Star Chief, from the concrete mattress
where it lay, from the jumbled confusion of what just happened. The rest of the
dog was statue still, save for the shallow rise and fall of its emaciated rib
cage. It became immediately clear that the dog was broken; it was trying to
flee because that’s what dogs do. This dog could no longer flee, and the
distraught look in its eyes revealed to those of us still staring that such a
fact was excruciatingly unacceptable.
I
couldn’t help but stare. I couldn’t help but watch as the dog kicked with its
only functioning leg, laying there with the rest of its mangled body
motionless, no doubt searching for some dog-explanation, some dog-meaning as to
why it could no longer move the way it had just seconds before. That’s when I
heard the miserable, heart-stabbing wheeze-slash-whimper, a knife that cut
through horns, birdsong, idle conversation, and the souls of those who stared
at its origin.
My
initial reaction was to run to the dog. If the dog was suffering, then I had to
put it out of its misery; it’s my duty. Was it suffering? It sure as hell
looked that way. I mean, wasn’t it my duty? Wasn’t it my obligation to
immediately end the dog’s life because letting it continue to suffer was
inhumane? Torture? This is not the type of thing I’m familiar with. I didn’t
even know how I was to go about doing it if I indeed had to. Did I have the
necessary tools required for such an undertaking?
Contents of backpack: baseball, baseball glove, mechanical
pencil, plastic Bic pen, an umbrella, and a common Spanish phrasebook. What if
I was wrong in my estimation? I mean, the only veterinary experience I had up
until that point was changing kitty litter and overusing that Universal Kissing
Language. I pulled out the Spanish phrasebook as if therein was the answer. Nothing.
Maybe if I used the Universal Kissing Language and the dog responded in a
somewhat normal fashion, then I should try to save it, I thought. But the dog did not
look normal; it was still kicking the air and the wheeze-slash-whimper had just been
accompanied by a wet gurgle. Oh God. I fingered through the phrasebook for
something like “Hurry! I need to kill this dog!” It wasn’t in there; this
book’s for tourists, and that’s exactly the way I felt as a tall, dark Cubano trotted disinterestedly out to
the dog, grabbed its erratically kicking leg, and dragged the dying animal out
of sight. This was the best of all possible solutions as far as I was concerned
and I’ll tell you why: the only other
option I had was to pull out the Bic and frantically stab the dog to end its
suffering. This was a terribly frightening proposition for the dog, any
spectators, and for myself, its improvised and exponentially inadequate
executioner: I am a naïve foreigner; a dumb animal. I am just a tourist here
and they certainly don’t make pens like they used to.
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